Chef’s childhood journeys in India inspire Ealing restaurant

A new Indian restaurant which has branches in Paris and Leeds has opened in Ealing, with a menu which aims to celebrate the diversity of Indian food.

The Crossing, located at the former Carluccio’s site on Ealing Green, draws inspiration from Chef Ankur Chakraborty’s childhood journeys across India with his father, who worked on the railways, and the flavours that he discovered on his journeys across the country’s crossing stations.

While the influence of those childhood experiences can be seen everywhere in the restaurant – from the diversity of dishes on the menu through to the red décor modelled on the Indian train wagons – what’s less clear is why Chef Chakraborty chose to open the fourth branch in Ealing.

However, much of it stems from his past career – with the chef, who has spent 22 years working and training alongside Michelin star chefs – having some very personal reasons for choosing the site.

Speaking to EALING.NEWS, Chef Chakraborty, said: “I began my career with Antonio Carluccio and this used to be a Carluccio’s 10 years ago. We were looking to come to the UK – and when this site came in we looked at it and I thought it was a beautiful site.”

He added: “There’s not a lot of Indian restaurants here, like other neighbourhoods in London. And it’s not central London, it’s not outside, it’s just where I would live if I lived in London.”

Having made an “instant decision” to open on the site, he added that the aim of The Crossing is to become a part of the Ealing community, with the restaurant’s staff all from the borough and the surrounding areas.

However, the chef also has ambitions to introduce locals to dishes from all regions which go far beyond the average curry house menu.

Chef Chakraborty, who is originally from the city of Varanasi but now lives in Dubai, explained: “My father worked 40 years of his life with the railways in India. So I travelled all across India with him and I realised that Indian food is not typical chicken tikka masala or butter chicken with some bread. It’s so much more. Every Indian restaurant that you go, this is the only offering that you get. But in here, we have offerings from across India.”

While those two dishes do indeed make an appearance on The Crossing’s menu, diners can also sample such delicacies as Paatra ni ‘Fish’ Macchi (sea bass grilled in banana leaf), Burrah Kebab Lamb Chop (grilled lamb with a pepper and chilli marinade and vindaloo ketchup) and Kashmiri Matze Kebab (a minced lamb skewer with saffron and yahkni jus).

For vegetarians, highlights include a paneer tikka butter masala, and Burmese kofta curry, featuring fried yoghurt dumplings with lime leaf and tomato masala. And don’t forget to leave room for desserts which include Mango Serradurra – a Goan Portuguese set cake topped with biscuit crumbs.

The Crossing is at 5-6 The Green, Ealing, London W5 5DA, and is open Monday-Sunday from 12pm-10.30pm.

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